…and upon arrival, we were speechless. The vast expanse of the Atacama Desert unfolded before us, a landscape sculpted by wind and time. Volcanic peaks pierced the azure sky, and the arid plains stretched towards a horizon painted in fiery hues of sunset. San Pedro de Atacama, we quickly realized, lived up to its reputation – according to me, it rivals Patagonia as the most beautiful spot in Chile.

How to get to San Pedro?

Coming from Uyuni:

Fresh off exploring the surreal landscapes of Salar de Uyuni? Many continue their adventure to San Pedro de Atacama. The usual way to get there is with a multi-day tour from Uyuni, Bolivia. Hundreds of companies offer 3-4 day tours that take you through the Salar de Uyuni and end in San Pedro de Atacama. These tours handle border crossings and transportation to the town center.

Flying in from Santiago:

This is what we did! We found a great deal on a round-trip flight (around $60) to Calama Airport during the off-season. This flight only took about two hours, and Calama Airport is the closest airport to San Pedro de Atacama (just a short transfer away).

You can determine your means of transportation (bus, flight, drive, …) with Rome2Rio.

How to get from Calama to San Pedro de Atacama?

By rental car: Several car rental companies operate at Calama Airport. Do your research beforehand to compare prices online and be prepared to negotiate for the best deal. Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore the surrounding areas at your own pace, but be sure to factor in gas prices and consider an SUV or 4×4 vehicle for some of the terrains. When we were making the deal for the rental, we asked for a discount … and got it. Yay us! The final price for 5 days was 169 000 CLP ( +- 220 EUR) for an SUV + 4×4 car.

By bus/public transport: The bus terminal is located in the city center, where you’ll find frequent buses heading to San Pedro de Atacama. There’s no need to book a bus ticket in advance, as there are frequent departures throughout the day.

Why a rental car?

Since we explored by rental car, I can only offer tips for that travel style. I met many people who opted for different approaches – bicycles or tours. Biking San Pedro sounds amazing, but keep in mind the warm daytime temperatures and those many, many climbs! If you’re set on a cycling adventure, I recommend Valle de la Luna and Valle de la Muerte for their beauty and accessibility.

Now, about tours… San Pedro de Atacama is a Chilean tourist hotspot, and tour companies know it. Let’s just say, tours can be REALLY expensive, especially during peak season. Here’s the kicker: with the rental car and gas costs shared between the three of us, we saved a significant amount compared to tours. We explored everything San Pedro has to offer on a much tighter budget. Plus, there’s a good chance you’ll meet fellow travelers at your hostel who’d be happy to split the gas or even chip in for the rental fee!

Day 1 – Calama to San Pedro

We collected our rental car from Calama Airport and set off on the scenic afternoon drive to San Pedro de Atacama. En route, don’t miss the chance to stop at Cordillera de la Sal, a mountain range with a captivating display of colorful rock formations. This natural wonder offers a remarkable first glimpse of the otherworldly landscapes that await you in San Pedro de Atacama – peaceful, beautiful, and undeniably impressive. Take a moment to soak it in, snap some photos, and stretch your legs before continuing your journey.

After stocking up on supplies, we unpacked and prepped some lunch for tomorrow’s adventure. To cap off a fantastic first day, we joined the hostel’s caipirinha evening. Great start to our trip.

Day 2 – Ruta 27

Fueled by a breakfast and the excitement of a new adventure, we departed from our hostel around 10 am, together with two Germans we met in the hostel. On this day, we’d be driving on Ruta 27 towards ‘Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos‘. Before reaching the national park we made several stops:

 – Vulcano Licancabur: Towering above the landscape at an impressive 5,920 meters, Licancabur volcano demanded our attention. We parked the car and ventured closer on foot, the vastness of the desert stretching out before us. Reaching a small canyon, we reveled in the view and captured some unforgettable photos.

– Mirador Quebrada Quepiaco: We bypassed the official viewpoint and pulled over a little early, rewarded with a breathtaking panorama. The rugged landscape unfolded before us, dotted with graceful vicuñas. We soaked in the beauty for a while, snapping pictures and marveling at the scenery.

– Laguna Pujsa: The allure of Laguna Pujsa beckoned us down an off-road track. While the drive itself was an exciting adventure, the lagoon itself wasn’t the most spectacular sight. If you’re not comfortable with off-road driving, you won’t miss out on too much by skipping this stop. For those who are adventurous, a 4×4 vehicle is recommended.

– Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos: “Our final destination for the day was the Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos, located just after a sharp bend in the road. You’ll see this sign:

Drive further to see some impressive rock formations and even further to get to the Monjes de la Pacana. (Be careful while driving there & avoid it with a normal car).

From here you could reach Salar de Tara, which is yet another long way off-road. We never got to the actual lake since we were getting tired of driving off-road, and we were also losing a lot of time to see other places. So, we decided to head back to the main road. From the main road (Ruta 27) we continued to drive toward the border of Chile and Argentina, where we passed two other lakes.

We paused to admire Laguna Aguas Calientes and Laguna Quisquiro, each with its unique charm. After taking in the beauty of the lakes, we decided to head back towards San Pedro de Atacama to find a spot for sunset viewing. Keep in mind that this route can be quite long, so it’s best to factor in travel time, especially as daylight fades. Of course, I recommend getting as close to San Pedro as possible before nightfall for safe travels. We found the perfect spot to watch the sunset: we stopped again at the majestic Licancabur volcano.

Day 3 – Ruta 23 and Salar de Atacama

On our second day exploring, we decided to head southeast on Ruta 23. Our ultimate destination for the day was Piedras Rojas, known for its stunning red rock formations. Knowing it was a long drive, we planned a stop on the way. With the hope of seeing flamingos on Day 1 dashed (we mistakenly thought they’d be at any random lagoon!), we were starting to lose hope of encountering these beautiful pink birds.

While driving towards Piedras Rojas, we reached Salar de Atacama – a perfect pit stop! This was our “mission accomplished” moment – we finally found flamingos! The entrance fee to Salar de Atacama is 2500 CLP (2019), and you’re greeted by park staff who are passionate about conservation. Curious, we peppered the entrance guy with questions, and he generously offered us a mini-tour. We learned a lot about the different animals living in the Salar, their diet, breeding habits, and more. We ended up spending a relaxing 1.5 hours in the park. Feeling welcomed and comfortable, we decided to enjoy our pre-packed lunch there, soaking in the beauty of Salar de Atacama.

Fueled by our flamingo encounter, we hopped back on the main road and passed through the town of Tocanao. Unfortunately, upon reaching what would have been our final stop, Piedras Rojas, we were informed it was closed. Determined to at least see it from afar, we followed the advice of the locals who had warned us and found a viewpoint with a decent view. Even though we couldn’t enter Piedras Rojas itself, the detour wasn’t a complete loss.

With a slight change of plans, we began our journey back to San Pedro, but not before a few more exciting stops! Our first stop was Laguna Miscanti & Laguna Miniques, a breathtaking sight with two high-altitude lagoons. (The regular entrance fee escapes me, but as a student studying abroad in Chile, I scored a discount – student price is 2500 CLP for your reference.) A quick tip for anyone following our route: Keep your eyes peeled for foxes while driving towards the entrance. Remember to admire these beautiful creatures from a distance – please don’t feed or touch them, for their well-being and yours.

Just outside the park exit, there’s one more jewel waiting to be discovered: Laguna Ojas de Salar and Laguna Tebinquiche. This spot is perfect for capturing the sunset’s magic in photos – don’t forget your camera! Here’s a heads up: since it’s on an unpaved road and takes time to reach San Pedro from there, be mindful of the time and avoid driving in the dark.

Back at the hostel, it was time to gear up for our stargazing adventure – the only tour we booked, since navigating the night sky requires some expertise! My advice for stargazers: check the lunar calendar beforehand (full moons can wash out the starlight), and dress warmly for the cool desert evenings. While I won’t recommend the specific company I used since I wasn’t entirely impressed, there are many reputable tour agencies in San Pedro de Atacama to choose from.

Day 3 –  El Tatio Geysers & Caspana

Day three was kind of rough. We left at 3 am and drove a long way in the dark towards El Tatio Geysers. It was a 2h30min drive from our hostel and was completely dark. Because of the dark skies, we were able to pull over and marvel at the breathtaking night stars – because we just couldn’t get enough of the stars after our stargazing tour.

We arrived at the geyser park entrance around 5:30 am. Thanks to our student IDs, we scored a discount on the entrance fee (4000 CLP per person – 2019 -). Once inside, drive to the back for the parking area. There were two major advantages to our early arrival: first, we practically had the place to ourselves, avoiding large tour groups. Second, and even more impressive, the colder temperatures resulted in the geysers being at their most active. The sight of the hot geothermal springs interacting with the frigid air was truly spectacular! Speaking of frigid, let me emphasize really cold. At -17 degrees Celsius, our hands and toes were put to the test. Bundling up warmly is essential! Another advantage of arriving early is witnessing the geysers transform throughout the morning light. We saw them first in complete darkness, then bathed in the magical hues of sunrise, and finally illuminated by the bright morning sun. As the sun climbed higher, temperatures became much more bearable, so the early discomfort was well worth it.

On the way back from the geyser field, keep your eyes peeled for another route branching off the main road within the park. This path leads to additional geysers and a hot spring. While the hot spring itself might not be the most luxurious experience (the water isn’t scorching hot, and there can be quite a few onlookers), it can still be an interesting addition to your visit.

After leaving El Tatio, we decided to play it by ear and explore the surrounding area. A quick look at our map led us towards a town called Caspana. Despite its remote location, the town was surprisingly well-maintained, even boasting a museum and a cultural center. Unfortunately for us, it was Monday, and both these facilities were closed. While I can’t share any museum insights, I can tell you the drive to Caspana was absolutely breathtaking! We practically had the entire road to ourselves, encountering barely a single car along the way. The scenery was stunning, and we spotted a variety of wildlife – foxes, donkeys, horses, vicunas, llamas… the list goes on!

When we got back to the hostel we didn’t plan anything else in the evening as our day started rather early.

Day 4 – Valle de la Luna & Valle de la Muerte

After our early adventure at El Tatio, we decided to take it a bit easier on Day 4. Our destination was Valle de la Luna, a fascinating landscape close to the town center. Many visitors choose to explore the valley by bike – a great option to consider!

Upon arrival at Valle de la Luna, there’s an entrance fee (we scored a student discount of 2000 CLP per person). This fee also grants access to the viewpoint at Piedra del Coyote. Here’s a quick reference for low-season pricing. Here is a summary of the prices in the low season of 2019:

After soaking up the otherworldly beauty of Valle de la Luna, we continued to Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley), where we were entertained by the sight of people attempting (and sometimes failing!) to sandboard – a hilarious spectacle! Our final stop of the day was Piedra del Coyote for sunset viewing.

Sunset at Piedra del Coyote: Aim to arrive around 5 pm to avoid the crowds. Tour buses tend to roll in around 5:30 pm, making the viewpoint quite busy. An earlier arrival allows you to snag a good spot for photos, enjoy the scenery in peace, and capture the magic of the moment without photobombers.

Alternative Sunset Option: If you prefer a less crowded viewpoint for sunset, consider heading to the Cordillera de la Sal instead. This location likely offers a more intimate experience due to its lower tourist volume.

Day 5 – Adios San Pedro!

Our desert adventure was coming to an end on Day 5. Since my Uyuni bus departed around 10 am, I had to say goodbye to my travel companions and head to the bus station.

The girls, however, weren’t quite ready to leave! They squeezed in two more exciting stops before their departure.

Their first stop was Tulor, considered the oldest archaeological site in Chile. Based on my friends’ enthusiastic reports, it’s definitely worth a visit for anyone interested in history.

After Tulor, they drove to Calama, where they met their tour guide at Avenida Granaderos 4025 for a special treat – a tour of the Chuquicamata mine! This tour takes visitors deep into the world’s largest open-pit copper mine, providing fascinating insights into its operations. Here’s a helpful tip for anyone interested in this tour: booking a few days in advance via email (visitas@codelco.cl) is recommended.

Are you looking for ways to travel more sustainably? Learn about the concept and get to know some tips and tricks!

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How to get there?

You can take a micro/bus towards Curauma. From the Sotomayor square, you could take bus number 001, 002 and 901 (or you can check the number of the busses through Google Maps). Try to follow your actual location on your online maps, or ask the bus driver to let you know when you get to Avenida Curauma Norte. Once at the town of Curauma, get off at the (only and) big roundabout. From there on, you can walk towards the park and start your journey.

Depending on your arrival time you could decide to walk along the lake and then walk towards the waterfall, or immediately head there. I’d recommend you to download MAPS.ME application on your smartphone. The application clearly shows you the possible paths within the park. The waterfall is named ‘Salto Del Agua’.

Once you’ve reached the viewpoint of the waterfall, you’ll be able to hike down. I’d like to make it very clear that it’s not the easiest hike, it’s very steep and slippery, full of rocks and tree roots. Also, the way up is a serious challenge as you’ll have to be able to climb over the big rocks again. I used the roots of the trees to help to pull myself up. It’s heavy but it’s worth it! Consider it as a small adventure. I don’t recommend this hike for people who do not feel fit. It’s also perfectly possible to enjoy the landscape from the viewpoint, without hiking down.

In order to get back to Valparaiso, you’ll have to head back to the main road and the roundabout. There, you can take several buses back. Just check with the driver.

Budget:

• +/- 1000 CLP to pay for the bus
• … that’s it there is no entrance fee for the park

Tips:

• Bring enough water & lunch/snacks.
• Leave on time from Valparaiso (approx. 10 am).
• Walk through the park towards viewpoint: easy.
• Hike from viewpoint towards the base of the waterfall: hard (wear suitable clothes: walking shoes, comfortable pants, …). Avoid hiking alone.
• If you’re planning beforehand: don’t pay for a tour, you can perfectly do it without a guide!

Safe travels! Love, Joyce

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Iquitos – day 1 to 2

Our adventure started off by flying in from Brussels to Lima. We didn’t leave the airport just yet as we had booked another flight straight to Iquitos. We spent 4 hours waiting at the airport for that next flight. I really recommend to avoid waiting yet another few hours after an international flight, but in this case, we immediately wanted to fly north in order to be able to travel downwards.

Iquitos is a city located in the middle of the jungle, which connects tourists with their future jungle experience. We stayed in there for about two days before we’d start our 5 day-jungle trip.

My 3 tips for you:

• Check the timing of the year: rain season or not?
• Bring repellent (a lot!)
• Read my article

The Amazon Jungle – day 2 to 6

We stayed at the ‘Ayahuasca Ecolodge’ with Louis as our local tour guide. Oh, what do we love this man! Despite being there during the rainy season and being eaten by mosquitos, it was one of the most interesting experiences so far. Regardless of the several hikes I’ve committed myself to, I have never had been this close to nature. We stayed at the lodge for 4 days, 3 nights. Read here more on how to book a stay in the jungle.

My 3 tips for you:

• Stay at least two nights
• Buy enough bottled water to take along
• Bring a headlamp and breathable clothes that cover your skin (arms and legs) completely

After these few days in the jungle, we traveled back to Iquitos by boat where we stayed for one more night before we’d fly back to Lima.

Lima – day 8 to 10

After this intense experience between the tall trees, snakes, insects, and air thick environment we had decided to spend some days in the capital city of Peru: Lima. We stayed at a random hostel we found last minute, rested out prepared ourselves mentally for the next heavy adventure. Besides resting and strolling around, we didn’t do much since we knew we’d come back to Lima later on our trip.

Huaraz – day 10 to 17

It is only a 7-hour bus ride to get from Lima to Huaraz. Oh, do I love this place. Huaraz is known to be a paradise for hikers and nature lovers. Coming from Lima and Iquitos we found the weather a bit colder. Chilly weather, coming along with a lot of rainfall. Especially at night. The city has an average temperature of 14 C, with a good deal of rainfall during the summer months.

But hey, still no reason to hold you back! As I mentioned before, it’s a paradise for nature lovers!  We joined a 3-day trekking into the Andes Mountains: the famous Santa Cruz Trek.

The tour company we traveled with was Galaxia Expeditions and it totally satisfied our needs. Of course, if you’re an experienced hiker you could do the trek without a guide. Besides from the Santa Cruz trek, Huaraz offers many other trekking opportunities such as Laguna 69 (1-day trek), Huayhuash (multiday trek), etc.

My 3 tips for you:

• Get off your lazy ass and go hiking/trekking
• When you trek/hike outside the season be prepared for lots of rain
• If you decide to trek/hike with an agency: negotiate & compare

Lima – day 17 to 20

Thanks to past travels we had met great people from Lima, they gave us the best local experience ever. There’s plenty of things to do in the capital city of Peru: bicycle tours, paragliding, free walking tours, party, beach, etc. Of course, despite the local encountering we still felt obligated to be the typical tourist. I very much dislike water but I still got convinced to go swimming with sea lions, didn’t regret it a moment (maybe a little bit)! There isn’t too much information about this activity found online, so go ahead and check out my tips for swimming with sea lions

My 3 tips for you:

• Try to get to know some of the nightlife of Lima
• Do a free-walking tour
• It’s a big city; be aware of pickpocketing

Cusco – day 20 to 23

Cusco is known the be the cultural heart in the Peruvian Andes range: Macchu Pichu, Sacred Valley, hiking, rafting, … As we only had a few days to spend in Cusco we decided to participate in a tour that’d visit several places in one day. It was a good tour and lovely to have seen most of the places in a short time but of course, I recommend taking your time to see these beautiful spots.

• Chinchero
• Moray
• Maras
• Urubamba
• Pisac

Aside from these impressive places, there are also many interesting museums found at the city center, such as: Museo de Historia Natural, Museo Inka, Museo de Arte Precolombino. Peru wouldn’t be Peru if you wouldn’t encounter massive markets; my favorite market was the Centro Artesanal Cusco. Stroll around, found some cheap food and juices, get a souvenir, …

Accommodation wise we stayed at the (not so international) Incama hostel/hospedaje. We booked a private room and found our cheapest option here. Friendly people, big room, central location, not too expensive.

My 3 tips for you:

• I’ve skipped Machu Pichu – don’t make the same mistake as I did!
• Avoid eating out at the city center of Cusco, try to find cheaper places around.
• Negotiate with the tour companies.

Puno – day 23 to 27

We arrived in Puno without a plan. With no accommodation yet, we figured we would just let it come to us. We came from Cusco to Puno by night bus (+- 9 hours), meaning it was only 6 o’clock in the morning when the bus arrived. We saw the sunrise over Puno, so that was definitely worth it! Of course, we were worrying a bit that finding accommodation at this time might be difficult… But nope! As we were walking into the center we encountered a lady offering accommodation at a hospedaje. The price was really fair, and later on -when we talked to other people- we got to know that we had found the cheapest option. Cheers to that! Arriving at Puno feels like going back in time: many locally dressed people and this time not for tourism reasons. 

The reason why we visited Puno is because of Lake Titicaca. Puno is the highest navigable lake above sea level but besides that, it’s also very popular with its floating islands.

Don’t expect much from the Uros island. I really felt like being trapped in a zoo, overwhelmed by the ‘locals’ asking for money in all kinds of ways. Of course, the floating island is really something you need to see when there, so don’t skip it if you’re there.

I heard people talking about a homestay at the floating islands, and they had a great experience. Maybe, if you have enough time to travel, this might be something you’d like to look into.

The next stop of the boat was the Island of Taquile. Be aware, it’s quite a climb to get to the main square… But absolutely lovely. Even though the boat said they are just transportation and not a tour, the had planned on eating lunch together at a restaurant at the main square. We just sneaked out from the group so we could go on by ourselves. We found this lovely family-owned place that I can only recommend. At that moment we really regretted not bringing any stuff to sleep over at their hostel. They were very kind and their prices aren’t high. So if you are planning on spending the night at Taquile island, this is the place to be:

My 4 tips for you:

• Spend the night at Taquile Island
• Don’t just accept the tour offers of vendors on the street. Go to the port and book your trip there.
• Avoid hostels and try to find hospedajes, much cheaper!
• Wander through ‘Calle Lima’ at night.

Border crossing Peru & Chile – day 28

Puno was my last stop in Peru before heading to Chile. This is where I continued traveling alone. From Puno, I traveled to Tacna, where I took a bus to Arica (Chile). Unfortunately, I had limited time during my travel to Peru. We weren’t able to see the whole country, sadly. Other must-see places in Peru are (according to travelers I’ve met along the trip):

• Machu Picchu – Depart from Cusco. I consciously skipped Machu Picchu & Rainbow Mountain, however, I don’t recommend skipping it. For the Dutch readers among you, read here how to get to Machu Picchu on a small budget.
• Arequipa (close to Puno)
• Huacachina (desert oasis)
• Mancora (beach)
• Colca Canyon (south of Peru – hiking)

Any other recommendations? Questions? Please let me know, I’d gladly listen!

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While researching this activity I realized there’s definitely poor information about this on the world wide web – so here you go!

PS, I already warn you for the pictures: some water came into the Go Pro case & ruined the quality of most pictures. Also, I was terrified. WATER and SEA LIONS from close-by aren’t my cup of tea.

Option 1 – Islas Ballestas (can’t interact with the animals here, read further for swimming!)

In Peru, you can easily visit the Islas Ballestas. These famous Islas Ballestas are groups of islands that are located about 4 hours from Lima. You’d have to navigate yourself to the small town named ‘Paracas’. What’s so special about these islands? How does ‘penguins in Peru’ sound to you? Strange? Well, that’s the spot to encounter wildlife such as sea lions, penguins, pelicans, etc. This tour consists of a boat ride and some information on the islands and the animals.
I, myself, didn’t make it to Islas Ballestas but instead, I went for an alternative:

Option 2 – Swimming with sea lions on Palomino Island

How to get there?
The first thing you’ll have to do is to get to Callao. Callao is considered to be one of the dangerous places in Lima, however, I didn’t notice any danger. Just don’t provoke and avoid going when it’s dark. It is a port town located about 30 to 40 minutes from the capital city. Tell your taxi or Uber driver to go to ‘Port of Callao’, get out at the square and follow the next instructions:

Find a tour
As we got out of the Uber, we immediately got approached by several tour companies that were selling the tour to Palomino Island. We choose the one that was least pushy and that offered us a fair price. We were the only foreigners in the group, which I like as it gives a more local experience. There were other tours where foreigners did join. If you mind being to the only outsider, choose your tour wisely. Later on, I learned that it is also possible to book this tour in advance (online). Of course, you’re going to pay a higher price. You have got to determine what you prioritize… An example of a company that uses online service is Mar Adentro.

Departure time
These ‘swimming with sea lions’ tours usually start around 10 am. We made sure to be at the location at 9:45 so we could find a tour calmly. One circuit usually takes around 2,5 hours until you get back at the starting point.

Action, action, action!
The boat ride takes about 45 minutes for you to get to the exact location. This gives you the times to enjoy the sun, the views, and the wind in your hair. It’s also the time when you’re going to change yourself into a wetsuit, in order not to freeze when you get into the water. Because YES the water is cooooold. The smell and the noise of the sea lions will give you a heads up once arrived. You’ll be free to drive into the water and swim. Enjoy! The sea lions are super curious and will approach, listen to your guide, and don’t touch the animals. Let them play around and do their thing

Enjoy your dive! Love, Joyce

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How to get to Iquitos?

As already mentioned, Iquitos is completely surrounded by the Amazon jungle which makes it impossible to reach it by car. There are only two ways to reach the city. The first way (and less popular way) is by boat. The boat takes several days which makes it more time-consuming. However, I’ve read and heard good things about the boat trip. Concluded, I can’t tell you much about traveling there by boat, but I’m sure that the World Wide Web has something in store for you. Reaching Iquitos by plane departing from Lima takes about 2 to 3 hours. At the airport in Lima, you can find many travel agency stands that sell tickets for about 200 to 300 sol (ir y revuelta). But of course, there’s still the internet if you prefer to plan your tickets ahead. My flight to Iquitos was one of the most beautiful flights in my life… Make sure you get a seat at the window!

Transportation: from the airport to the city center

When you walk out of the airport many people will try to get you in their taxi… DON’T fall for these people. Walk a little bit further and stop a three-wheeler. These mototaxis (or three-wheelers… however you want to call them) are very efficient and cheap. A mototaxi from the airport to the city center is about 8 to 10 soles. The city center of Iquitos is called ‘Plaza de Armas’.

Accommodation: Hostels or hotels

In Iquitos, you can find everything. From the most shitty hostels to a Hitlon hotel. Because I travel on a budget I stayed at the Casa Celestrial Hostel. I’m mentioning the hostel because I was very satisfied with the hostel since it fitted my budget very well. The stay there was smooth and easy, and a very good location as well. The owner spoke both English and Spanish. If you’d like to check other options I can tell you that generally hostels aren’t expensive in Iquitos – 1 night could cost you between 16 to 22 Peruvian Sol per night.

Tourist scams

People on the street try to address you. First, they try to become your friend by asking about your home country and by asking your name. See, that a trick. The owner of our hostel specifically warned us about that. By knowing your information they will contact the next hostel, tour guide or whatever you’re planning on doing or visiting and they’ll claim that he has sent you there. When that happens, the people of the agency or hostel will have to pay that person a commission. Even though they didn’t do shit.

Wifi

Be prepared for a little internet detox. The wifi in Iquitos isn’t as strong as we know it like back home. So, do much of your research, booking, downloading before you get to the city.

Gateway to the jungle

All tourists who make it to Iquitos are preparing their trip to the jungle. My tip is: don’t book in advance, especially not on the internet. Don’t bite from the first time. The best thing you can do is hear people out, negotiate the price and tell them you contact them later once you’ve decided. There are tons and tons of jungle experiences that are sold in Iquitos. I’ve heard good and bad stories there. I, luckily, had a good experience with our tour. We stayed at a lodge which was very authentic. Our tour guide, Louis, was the owner of the lodge. I cannot express how much I appreciated him. He gave us so many great memories which I am so grateful for. I think I can write a book about him and his stories. If you’d like to know more about my stay or get a contact please contact me in private. I’d gladly provide you his phone number. Ps, post about my stay in the jungle coming soon!

Buy bottled water, don’t drink from the tap

Water on tap in Iquitos is not drinkable. Always buy bottled water. In fact, when I took a shower I felt very weird afterward. Like … not clean.

Try to avoid touristy restaurants and eat street food

The touristy restaurants of Iquitos are much more pricey than the street food places. Also, how much more authentic is it to eat with locals instead of being surrounded by all English speaking people. At night, street food is found generally everywhere.

Ayahuasca

You’ll get the opportunity to do Ayahuasca. When I was there, I got many opportunities too, but I didn’t do it. I can’t tell you much about it but what I can say is … Be careful. If you do decide to do it, then do it with full awareness. Make sure you’re with trustable people and with a clear head. I’ve heard many great things about it and many people recommended it to me. However, I’ve also heard some horror stories. Know that you’ll be puking your organs out, and you’ll be shitting your pants. However, I heard the trip is nice. I heard that people really get to know themselves afterward. Everyone says it’s a medicine, I’d rather call it a drug but I suppose it’s a matter of perception and everyone should decide for themselves what they consider it to be.

What to do in Iquitos?

Monkey Island – La Isla De Los Monos

Isla De Los Monos or Monkey Island is a sanctuary for monkeys owned by a family and opened up to the public. At this rescue center, you won’t see poor animals being locked up in cages that are way too small for them to live. On the contrary, you’ll see the monkeys running and playing around in open air. Getting there: So, you should be very careful when navigation to Monkey Island. We tried… At the harbor, we contacted a local driver, made a deal and … finally, he dropped us off somewhere that clearly wasn’t Monkey Island. Concluded; we didn’t get to see the real Isla de Los Monos, but instead saw a mournful ‘rescue center’… It was quite sad and poor looking one which made me doubt if it was a real one. Again, a tourism scam.  The real Isla De Los Monos is located about 45 minutes by speedboat. This is the right information I got from the tourism center: take a speed boat from Puerto de Productores (and not Port Bella Vista – this is the mistake we made). There, look for a boat that goes to Varadero. It’s recommended to call the place when your boat leaves to any of these phone numbers: 065 235887, 965841808, or 987610985. By doing that, they can send a smaller boat to pick you up in Varadero.

Belen Market

The Belen market is characterized as a vibrant and exotic place. You can’t miss this out when in Iquitos! The size of the market is enormous and you won’t believe your eyes when you see what you’ll encounter. It’s recommended to go there with a local guide as it is easy to get lost. However, I think if you think rationally, you’ll be able to find your way back. Also, big tip: be aware of pickpockets. It’s commonly known that tourists at this place are a frequent target.

Puerto Belen

They call Puerto Belen the Venice of Iquitos… Only much more poor. You’ll encounter houses put on poles to stay above the water. It is located at río Itaya, right next to the Belen market. We spent half a day at this location, going around by boat. It’s a sketchy area, but it is worth visiting. I recommend you to go there with locals in order to obtain a more local experience. If you’d be interested feel free to contact me and I could provide you the telephone number of a friend we made there. Wear decent shoes or even boots, feet might get dirty. Apologies for the quality of the next video!

Manatee Rescue Center

Ever heard of a Manatee? To me, it is the cutest animal I’ve ever seen. At the Manatee rescue center, you’ll encounter several animals that have been rescued out of several terrible situations, for example out of the hands of local people that keep them (sloths, monkeys, …) as a pet. Of course, there are so many more situations I could sum up. That’s where this team of people comes in. They started out as a rescue center only for manatees and finally grew to what they are now. Visit their website for more information. Getting there: You could reach the place by getting into a mototaxi. The address is Carretera Iquitos – Nauta, km 4,5. You could find it on Maps.me by typing ‘Centro de Rescate Amazonico (CREA)’.

Enjoy your travels! Love, Joyce

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